|Ready-4-Tile Modular Glass Block Shower Kits|
|Cut 2" outside diameter drain pipe to sit 1/8" above the subfloor. Ensure that there is a 5" diameter hole around the drain pipe to allow for the drain body.|
Assemble the drain body on the base by first applying a continuous bead of Hydro-Blok sealant to the top side of the pan's drain flange
Unscrew the outer and inner parts of the assembled drain. Insert the main portion of the drain body on to the top side of the base.
Turn pan over and install rubber gasket, then paper gasket, and secure with drain nut.
Make sure to firmly tighten by hand.
Over-tightening with a wrench can damage pan.
Tool excess caulking from top side if necessary.
|Dry-fit the pan to ensure that it fits into place properly, and that no modifications need to be made prior to setting the pan.|
Mix modified thinset to the same consistency as you would for tile.
Apply modified thinset to subfloor using 3/8" x 3/8" square-notched trowel. Make sure to cover entire area where pan will sit.
Arrange channels of thinset to run towards open entry side of shower to allow air to escape when pan is set into place.
Apply thinset to the back of your shower pan using the smooth side of a trowel. Do not apply thinset on or within ½" of the stainless steel drain support ring.
|Set pan into bed of thinset on subfloor. Make sure pan is firmly set and level with no air pockets underneath. Walk on pan to compress layers of thinset together. If desired, you can place weighted items on pan to help compress thinset.|
Place rubber drain gasket onto 2" drain pipe. This is a snug fit, and soapy water can be used to help slide gasket onto the pipe.
Make sure to push rubber gasket fully onto pipe so that gasket is flush with the top of the drain pipe.
It is imperative that the top of the rubber gasket is not sitting above drain pipe.
Insert threaded locking nut into drain and tighten using supplied metal tool and a slotted screwdriver, being careful not to cross-thread nut.
Ensure that gasket is tightened down as much as possible to prevent leaks from occurring at the drain.
|Now you can plug the drain and fill it with water to test to ensure that the gasket has been properly screwed down.|
|Hydro-Blok wallboard is light and easy to work with; it can be easily cut with a razor knife. You will want to cut all the way through the board to insure you have a clean edge for a better seal when being assembled.|
|Apply a generous and continuous bead of supplied urethane caulking to recessed notch at perimeter of pan, filling this notch 3/4" to completely full, ensuring that there are no gaps or air pockets in caulking.|
|Set wallboard into sealant, pressing firmly to seat wallboard fully into the sealant, and making sure that wallboard is not sitting above the edge of the pan.|
|Apply tab washers starting one foot above the pan and every 1’ on the studs. You will be compressing the wallboard so the tab washer is indented slightly from the surface of the wallboard.|
|Apply a continuous ½” bead of sealant to all edges of wallboard before placing the next sheet in place. |
Continue to screw the fasteners into place.
Once your wallboard is all in place, trowel back the sealant that has squished out from seams. The sealant will start to cure in about 30-60 minutes depending on temperature.
Place the washers over the joints between the sheets of wallboard to encourage the edges of the wallboard to be flush and use less fasteners.
|Always remember the most crucial step with installing the Hydro-Blok shower system is to always apply sealant generously to the joints before joining the parts. Surface applied joints will not work!|
|Apply more sealant to all inside corners of the complete shower system and trowel flat. This will act as a surface flashing in addition to the depth of seal between all parts. Use any excess sealant to cover all fasteners or apply more with your sealant gun if necessary. Make sure that all fasteners are completely covered including the complete tab washers so that no metal is exposed.|
|Optional Fabricated Bench|
|Constructing a custom built-in bench is easy with the 1½” Hydro-Blok building panel|
|Using a skill saw or hand saw, cut 45-degree angles to the appropriate length. Here we have cut the 1½” building panel to 18” tall for our desired bench height.|
|Then use scraps, also cut to 18” tall, and glue them into the back corner as a ledge support for the bench top that will be installed next.|
|Cut a piece of 1½” building board to fit the top of the bench, then glue into place. |
Tip: Dry fit bench top then scribe edge of bench face for a perfect fit.
|Glue the top into place. When in position, press the front edge down to create the appropriate slope for water to runoff. In essence you are using the sealant as a wet shim to create the needed slope.|
|Apply sealant to all edges and then trowel flat.|
|Completed Ready-4-Tile Shower Pan System|
|Modular Glass Block Wall Assembly|
Install panel anchors into top horizontal spacer on each modular wall section, except for the top panel.
Run ½” bead of silicone at centerline of where panel will sit on the curb, and a ½” bead of silicone up the jamb to the height of the base panel. Use a larger bead of silicone if your framed wall leans in. Set panel on curb and push into framed wall until it is the desired distance from wall (1/8” or more if wall leans in).
Note: You will need to use the Hydro-Blok urethane at the jamb and sill when setting the panels if you are installing the Modular Walls the same day theReady-4-Tile System was installed. The urethane and silicone should not cure together at the same time.
|Plumb and level panel, then drive screw through upper hole. If anchoring through stone or tile, pre-drill with a 5/32” masonry bit. Once the first screw is in place, check your panel again for plumb, if a small adjustment is needed, the panel can be moved, and will pivot on the upper screw. When perfectly plumb, anchor with second lower screw.|
|Apply two-¼” beads of silicone to the top of the spacer on the first panel and a ½” bead to the wall the height of the second panel.|
Place the second panel on top of the first and push into the wall until the vertical joints line up.
(Tip…if the second panel is hitting the anchor at the wall and the vertical joints don’t line up; pry the first panel out away from the wall until they do.)
Repeat steps on all sections but the top panel.
|On the top panel (which will not have an anchor), apply two-¼” beads of silicone to the top of the spacer on the second to last panel, and a ½” bead up the wall to the height of the top panel. Since this panel will not have an anchor, it will need to be braced while the silicone cures to ensure that the panel is plumb.|
|Note: Straight panel configurations may require a temporary support and overnight drying time prior to grouting.|
|It is recommended to let silicone cure for four hours to assure no movement in panels prior to grouting|
Follow water measurement as instructed on grout container. Let it “slake” or sit in the bucket undisturbed for 5 to 10 minutes, depending on jobsite temperature, then remix. This is critical for maximum grout strength.
Tip: Add water slowly. This grout resists water at first and a common mistake is to add too much water, ending up with soupy grout.
Apply grout to all joints making sure to completely fill in all voids while encouraging grout to push into seams in vinyl spacing system.
Note: Do not grout between the glass blocks and the jamb or between the glass blocks and the curb.
Wipe grout joints clean using clean water and a tile sponge. Wipe diagonally across grout joints until smooth. Repeat process with clean water by slowly wiping joint and rinsing sponge after each pass.
Rinse bucket and replace with clean water. Slowly wipe all joints, rinsing sponge after each pass. This process is known as “clean swiping”. Once this is completed wait, 20 minutes to 1 hour depending on jobsite temperature, and repeat this process. This is a rapid cure.
Grout and will start to cure and harden within 45-90 minutes depending on room temperature. It is recommended to only mix and apply a maximum of one 25 lb bag at a time.
To ensure a waterproof joint between the glass block and surrounding materials, it is necessary to caulk these joints.
(Note: this is critical because grout tends to have hairline cracks when placed between dissimilar materials, and that’s where leaks start. Wait at least four hours after grouting is completed and cured before you begin caulking.)
Start by making sure the block, jamb and sill materials are free of dust, by wiping with a terry cloth towel, alcohol can be used if oil is present.
Using blue 1" or wider masking tape, apply to the edge of the glass block panel 1/8” from edge of glass. Then apply blue tape 1/8” away from the face of the block on the jambs and along the curb on both sides of the panel.
Apply sealant starting on the front of the sill and about 2” up the jamb. Use a Caulk Rite tool strike the joint, wiping the tool clean as sealant builds up on it. Spray soapy water from a trigger sprayer onto the tooled joint, and after coating your finger in soapy water tool the joint with your finger.
Cut the tape 1” short of where you started and stopped the sealant bead. Remove the tape on both sides of the fresh sealant, pulling the tape at a 45 degree angle to the panel so that it doesn’t disturb the sealant. Once the tape has been pulled off, spray the sealant one more time and run your finger over the joint once more, this will smooth out any imperfections left by the removal of the tape.
|Repeat this process until all perimeter joints are sealed. (Note: Use the translucent silicone on any surface that doesn’t require painting i.e. tile, marble or solid surface. If the surface will be painted i.e. wood or drywall use a paintable sealant like latex or the more waterproof urethane.)|
|Sealing Grout & Glass|
Now that the modular glass block panels are installed, it is recommended to seal the grout and the glass block, especially if the panels are installed in a wet environment. Sealing the grout protects against mold, mildew and dirt, while the glass sealer protects against hard water spotting and soap scum.
After the grout has cured for 24 hours, apply the grout sealer before applying glass sealer (two coats are recommended). Then seal the glass with Aquapel. Both of these processes will want to be repeated about once a year, in order to ensure a low maintenance shower for years to come.